Replacing nut

[Gregsaab]

I have a bit of a sitar effect on the D string of my ‘98, so I picked up a few nuts (listing states they were picked up from Parker factory). Is there an adhesive that needs to be removed? Or are the nuts just held in place with slots?

[vjmanzo]

It’s glued in, so it just needs a good tap to come out, but if you haven’t done that sort of thing before, a good tech can do it.

#NutIssues

[Gregsaab]

It looks like the ‘parker-factory graphtech’ lacks the groove that my current nut has — did Parker add that ergonomic groove?

[vjmanzo]

The Graphtech nut came to Flys after a few other types. The original nuts were slotted while attached to the Flys with a modified hydraulic press device with six individual cutters. The one you're holding is one of the nuts supplied to Parker Guitars from Graphtech during the USM-era.

[Gregsaab]

I see - so I should not use this on a pre-USM Fly, correct?

[vjmanzo]

You can use it just as you would your existing nut—it's just a little different from the ones Ken and co were making/using in Wilmington. As long as it's cut properly (which it likely is) it will be fine.

I don't know what might be causing your "sitar effect", but if it's a result of the slot being too deep (from wear-and-tear sawing away via the vibrato system, for example) then a drop of glue can usually do the trick to fill in the slot a bit.

[Gregsaab]

I did file the nut to accommodate 10 gauge strings, but was careful not to deepen the slots. However, it’s quite possible that I cut too deep. Will try the glue trick.

[vjmanzo]

Here's a little info on the approach—I've never used the product in this video, but Dan Erlewine and Joe Glasier know what they're talking about:

[mmmguitar]

For anyone else experiencing deja vu:

viewtopic.php?p=4684
viewtopic.php?p=5514

FWIW, the dreaded "sitar sound" at the nut is typically caused by insufficient break angle from the nut slot to the tuning peg (I've even been surprised to find it occurring in locked Floyd Rose nuts when the retainer bar wasn't down low enough).

IMO, if Fly headstocks had more back angle, there'd be more room for slotting error and wear. Then again, the Fly was thoughtfully designed to have "perfect"/impressively low premade nut heights and what most manufacturers would consider minimal neck relief (the factory nut height on my plek'd Suhr is higher than any of my Ken-era Flys, and Suhr specs greater neck relief at the factory).

[Gregsaab]

Will the nut that I have “just fit” onto my Mojo?

Update on original issue on ‘98 - I added some more relief (it was too tight) and everything is perfect, no need to swap nut.

[mmmguitar]

Will the nut that I have “just fit” onto my Mojo?

I take it your 2011 Mojo appears to have the same nut/shelf size as your '98 Deluxe, rather than exhibiting the "Gibson-style" nut USM switched to in 2011 (pictured far right, courtesy of VJ's thread)?

If so, there remains a chance that the string spacing for the slots won't match up perfectly, due to various changes through the eras of production. But it shouldn't hurt to try it out - Just don't glue the replacement down until you're certain.

[Gregsaab]

It actually has the Gibson-style nut

[mmmguitar]

It actually has the Gibson-style nut

Yeah; they're two different nut shapes and (I think) string spacings. My '11 Supreme is the same - but I've also seen Flys from that year with the older style nut.