the Fly Clone Project

I just got this guitar 4 days ago, returns not accepted on Reverb. I'm only getting a hum and no string sound when it's in Mag or Mag/Piezo mode. No sound at all on the Piezo. The master volume and Mag volume both control the volume of the hum. The Mono/Stereo switch will make the hum slightly louder in mono. I've used a stereo cable and mono cable with no difference. My amps are a Henriksen Bud 10 solid state and a Fender Blues Jr. The endpin jack was making noise if you moved the cable side to side. Can this be fixed, by who and how much? I've contacted the seller but not expecting much. Thanks for your feedback.

@JimmyFly, have you looked under the hood, yet? If you do, photos posted here will help. At the moment,
your description suggests a ground wire came loose at the jack. But I really can’t say for certain without more info.

I’m afraid we get a lot of “drive-by” posters who don’t follow up with how they got their tech issues resolved; so I don’t have any vetted repair persons in the region your IP shows to point you toward. I suggest soliciting recommendations for a local tech in the FB groups to maximize the amount of eyes on your issue. I have a thread here where I try to catalog vetted repairs - If you end up going with someone not yet on the list, please let us know how things worked out.

Battery? That’d be the first thing I’d check. Dead or unplugged.

Did the guitar ever work while in your possession? In addition to what others have said, @JimmyFly, what brand cable are you using? If the jack is loose, don’t try to tighten it by turning it—did you do that by any chance?

Bummer. Hopefully you can document well enough to get a discount. All is not lost but it is a downer.

Take the back cover off and look at the flat flex cables, especially the ones going to the jack or the knobs. If there are any tears or slits that’s likely the issue. Fortunately you can often run bypass wires to carefully chosen connection points but it is best done by someone experienced in pcb repairs. Post some pictures if you’re in doubt.

Failing that (hopefully!) it is most likely an issue with the jack and there are instructions on this site for replacing it.

Worst case, you can remove the all electronics and wire like a traditional guitar using a more recent preamp by graphtech or fishman using their wiring diagrams. Either preamp works with existing saddles and pickups.

If you go with a full rewiring job, there is a market for the original parts. I’d probably hang on to them though since someday in the near future there is likely to be replacement flat flex cables.

Patzag, you are a genius! Dead battery. Ha, I'm such a newbie. But I gotta say, not easy getting that battery out. I had to use a wooden skewer through the PU cavity to gently pry it out. Those wires are pretty stiff form 1996. Dreading it.

JimmyFly wrote: ↑Mon Sep 26, 2022 8:20 pm not easy getting that battery out. I had to use a wooden skewer through the PU cavity to gently pry it out.

Lemme guess—an Amazon Basics battery inside? Energizers fit with a little room, and a dime comes in handy to unscrew that compartment when needed!

Glad this worked out!

Whew!

So one issue I'll have to address is the mono/stereo button which likes to stay in or out intermittently. Electronically it works fine in both positions but I need to press it 5 times to come out or 5 times to go in. Has anyone tried removing these and taking them apart or are replacements available?

I’m going to let someone more qualified handle the button issue.
But on the battery, this is what I do: take a piece of scotch tape 2.5 inches in length, fold over one third so that you have one third you can handle and one third sticky.
Tape the sticky part to the battery side so the handle sticks out.
When you insert the battery, you now have a tabby you can use to pull the battery out when it’s time to replace it.

When you plug in your cable, the LED on the back will flash. If it stays on, it’s time to replace the battery.

If it doesn’t flash, it’s well past time and there should not be any signal coming through.

Good luck with your switch and enjoy! The Classic is the best Fly I’ve used so far!

FWIW if you’re intending to replace the button, we have been using these switches with these covers with our Flex PCB replacement prototypes—still a work in progress, but figured I’d share.

Great suggestion abt the tape on the battery compartment. Thanks.