the Fly Clone Project

hello,
sooo happy that this place exist now...
many thx to all involved to make it like it is now!
huge respect... i'll know it's lot's of work and cost money...
so can't thank you enough for keeping the PARKER spirit up!

i'm full addicted since 10 years now...
was looking sooo long for a pre fly ... in black...
found it on the bay... bought by a guy who was extra in US from germany to get this axe...
it was this special day ... you maybe know when those things happend...
you get a feeling and you do it and you have success...
it just popped up on the bay... and i'll was just looking in that moment for a fly...
bam contact... and buy... with all original papers and tools and gig bag... a 1995 Fly in black...
when she arrived i'll was blown away by how great she feels and the playing was...
imminently i felt in love with her and we are one since than... my main axe...
i'm playing from heavy metal too jazz ...
...lot's of improvising with friends...
changed my AXE FX II with a Boss SY-1000 and more than happy... BUT
the ugly GK-3 pickup ... is against the Parker design philosophy
because i'll reunited with my old band... and we're doing now seriously ...
i'll thought about to give my Fly a liftup...
here is what i'll like to do and comments or ideas for doing better are really welcome!
maybe while we @ it... would be great to have a separate place for those who do mod or lift up a Parker?

well i'll want to take out the complete electronics... but let everything intact... for maybe later build back etc...

here the hardware update
1. Ghost System complete with piezo
2. Bare Knuckle Juggernaut Bridge pickup... they make a special version for me that fit's into the fly... extra cost 10 pound
3. Hipshot Open Gear Black Locking Tuner with UMP ... no new holes to make...
4. Emerson Custom CTS 500K for Master Vol, Master Tone with Warwick Knob's in black / 0.015 paper in oil capacitor
5. Göldo EL002 Toggle for Pickup Select, MIDI/Mag/Both and a (on)off(on) Toggle for midi up/down... replace the Midi Vol because do it with a pedal
6. Locking Killswitch to bypass/silence entire system ... here i'll replace the power on/off with a new black one with red led if on...
7. Point-to-point with Passive Electronics wiring ...
8. 13 pin will use old battery plate for connection

i'll don't want to make any new holes in my fly and also keep the original electronic intact...
i'm good in electronics and build my own IOT devices with ESP-32...

so while i'll did not start with the adventure still have two questions...
1. where to connect the Killswitch ...
2. is there a wiring for Point-to-point with Passive Electronics + Ghost system?

here some pic's
PM20 PM24 Fly Fly with GK-3 Serial
every suggestion is welcome
happy to be here...
thx
M.

Thanks for the detailed post, @MadMac! You and I have a fair amount in common, with our project(s).

With regard to your questions:

I suggest placing the kill switch where the piezo volume/tone currently is; as you won’t want to accidentally strum it. And if you scroll through this file:

_files/Notices_Schematics/Graphtec_Sadd ... lletin.pdf

You’ll see Graphtech wiring diagrams for the Fly. If you or a tech need additional info, I can take photos of my passive/Ghost Hexpander-wired Fly’s guts.

I too found GK3s on Flys to feel rather out of place. Plus, the unit obstructs the tension wheel unless you have a refined Fly. I myself have a black ‘96 deluxe I use for mod experiments: It currently has two Dimarzio Bluesbuckers in a passive master volume/tone arrangement with treble bleed and coil splitting, being fed in tandem with Ghost saddles into a Hexpander board and outputted through the original 1/4” output and a 13-pin installed in the original piezo on/off switch hole. The battery compartment is currently untouched; because I plan to use it to power a Sustainiac in the future.

If I’m understanding your post, you’ll be replacing the piezo on/off switch with a modern one? I’m confused as to whether this will be the kill switch; or if you’ll be using it to switch one of the Graphtech components on/off.

Have you heard a Juggernaut in a Fly before? I ask because I find the resonance of the Fly adds quite a bit of gain to the pickups and; in my own experiments with higher-output pickups in a Fly, it was difficult to tame. However, if you intend to use the bridge pickup position almost exclusively for metal, I can also imagine this sounding terrific.

Is the switch to Hipshot tuners for purely aesthetic reasons, or will it also reduce weight?

hello,
well here i'll have made a quick wiring...
think it will make things more clear...
and hope that my wiring is correct...

well still unclear where to connect the Kill switch...
the idea is silent the complete sound .. midi&mag...
with a push toggle that has a led light inside...
that should replace the Mono/Stereo button on the side of the Fly...
maybe can use the Ghost Vol connection... like ON = 100% Off = 0% volume ?

can i'll use the original output jack for this mod?

here the wiring: and for direct view:
many thx @mmmguitar for the link and info's!
cool that you've done it ...
do you have a wiring ... because it's like the same i'll wanna do...
and yes i've heard the Jugger before in a Fly and also played with it...
perfect made for my needs... yep bridge = Metal
and also have the SY-1000 for the rest ... so also for replace the piezo sounds..
the device is just amazing... no lag... play & feel... you need only adapt you style a little ...

the hipshot tuners ... two reasons... cheap @ bay @moment... 40$ with UPM
and had them before on my old Strat... like them... and they are special too...

Sperzel was my choice... but 90$ was too much compared...

many thx
M.

@MadMac, how are you planning to power the LED? I agree that routing the signal from the pins for the Hexpander volume (as well as the magnetic signal between the selector switch and volume pot) through the on/off is the way to go for your kill switch.

If I’m understanding correctly, you’re using only the Hexpander; and not the Acoustiphonic board? And you can use the original Fly jack - You’ll only be using two of its contacts for magnetic lead and ground (and, I assume, with a jumper from the lead contact going to the Hexpander mag harness plug).

I’ll take a photo and upload a crude diagram of the wiring in my ‘96 Deluxe - Hopefully I don’t keep you waiting too long.

mmmguitar wrote: ↑Thu Dec 17, 2020 1:34 am @MadMac, how are you planning to power the LED?

well the hexpander has a extra power pin for other active gear and for led if you like...
think will use the pin than to connect the led from the push toggle with a resistor...
it's made for it

here one of those choices... can also have red & green & white.. it's same size as the hole for piezo on/off 12mm

If I’m understanding correctly, you’re using only the Hexpander; and not the Acoustiphonic board?

Yes correct... but maybe later i'll add it... depend how happy i'm with it so far ...
hope that the wiring works without the Acoustiphonic board...

here is a updated version...

I’ll take a photo and upload a crude diagram of the wiring in my ‘96 Deluxe - Hopefully I don’t keep you waiting too long.

many many thx for helping here... really appreciated ...
think will also be interesting for others in the future as well...
love that
M.

hello,
i've updated the wiring with Midi vol ...
will use a push/pull poti for coil split.
think it's more handy to have a Midi knob for whatever task it will be needed...
most of time for Midi Volume... but have some ideas for other controlling as well..
and as it looks like in the hexaphonic doc's ... should all possible without the acousticphonic...
stuff will arrive tomorrow and will start @ weekend...
thx
M.

Awesome, @MadMac! Please keep us posted!!

#ElectronicsMods

hello,
the operation started....
pulled out everything...
cleaned and installed the h new Ghost piezo's ...
was not easy to make the hole bigger for the cables...
and don't forget to ground the bridge.... use old piezo cable...
some pic's... more later M.

Looks great! Are you going to put shielding in that cavity?

@MadMac—and what’s going to happen with that original Fishman preamp you removed?

jb63 wrote: ↑Sat Dec 19, 2020 6:07 pm Looks great! Are you going to put shielding in that cavity?

many thx...
well the shield paint looks good so far... will check when all is in...
@ moment i'll let it as it is...

and what’s going to happen with that original Fishman preamp you removed?

hehe ... gonna put it in my safe for later... no damage.. all intact... was really carefully .. but easy task...

well wired it all up based on the plan above... and all is working : -)
sounds a little different ... and also the piezo's are different to GK-3
very impressed so far... intonation was easy to set up...
only missing the Juggernout PU and the extra 13 pin out...
booth coming from GB ... so in january i'll will get had's on...

here are the new connectors i'll will use... much better and 90°... now testing.... many thx for interest
M.

hello,
finished now all installations...
only the new 13 pin is missing...
the Ghost system is amazing...
get it all working also mag pu out over 13 pin...
now the last thing i'll need and can not find is a C&K Toggle Switch Momentary SPDT
that fit's in the bigger hole... 9mm all i'll found online are 6mm ... that i'll have...
cool would be also to get all part's in black... also the screws for the piezo's ...
if anyone know's a resource where to get those toggles in black ... plz share
want them all in black... so 1 x ON/ON/ON 1 x ON/OFF/ON and 1 x (ON)OFF(ON) Momentary 9mm or 10mm
many thx!
the front looks like the old only a new Midi switch replace the piezo Vol/Tone... need a bigger on here here you have to bind all 7 cables together so that they don't touch the mechanic ... or it makes noise...
also you have to ground the tail here... completed and tested... works all proper... also the hexpander...and power led sooo happy

Congrats, @MadMac!! Great work!!

hello,
so after one day testing...
all works really well...
after setting up the guitar synth for the hexpander...
only the midi connector is missing but coming also before end of year
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Amp ... hr2A%3D%3D
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Amp ... 4AUQ%3D%3D very happy so far that it worked so smooth...
no issues with wiring or hexpander ... no new holes to make...
only make one hole little bigger for the piezo wires...
the battery plate get's replaced by a self made one with the hole for the midi connector...
and will install a mini pot for the led to dim ...
kill switch is for mag pu only @ moment...
but looks much better as the original...

so far really satisfied and happy i'll did it...
because it's all so much better now... and worth the extra money ...
can highly recommend this MOD to your Parker...
because all can be build back without problems ... no extra holes...
got all switches from c&k ... same as the original...
best pot's on market ...only the Juggernout Humbucker is missing...
when he arrives... i'll also do a new shield painting and shielding the plastic back plate new...
that's the last thing to make her perfect... shielding is good but new paint to make it little better shielding...
if you MOD like this you have to do it ...
if there are any questions... plz ask...

if you wanna order parts like vol pot and switches...
go to mouser... they have it all ... and best prize too...
thx
M.

Great work, @MadMac! And, personally, I love the “no new holes” approach you’re taking! Looks terrific!

The MIDI jack you showed—that’s a standard 5-pin connector, right? I’m unfamiliar with the Hexpander output; does it do the conversion to MIDI onboard, or is it like other MIDI systems where it routes each string signal discretely on six of the thirteen pins?

vjmanzo wrote: ↑Mon Dec 21, 2020 9:30 am Great work, @MadMac! And, personally, I love the “no new holes” approach you’re taking! Looks terrific!

The MIDI jack you showed—that’s a standard 5-pin connector, right? I’m unfamiliar with the Hexpander output; does it do the conversion to MIDI onboard, or is it like other MIDI systems where it routes each string signal discretely on six of the thirteen pins?

hi,
many thx...
well it's just a demo pic... the one on the link is a 14 pin connector...
only need 13 pin... but that's to specific to Roland... and not easy to get...
love the 90° angel... and that you can screw it in... more secure than...
thx
M.

Ahh I see that now—great!

Yes, I like the 90 angle approach as well! Very excited to see this come a long so quickly!

I may be a little late, but I use gumbo's custom Synth•Linx 13-pin Jack Kits:

https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index ... pic=8888.0

They are perfect for what you are doing!

Also, I think the connector used is the same one RMC uses to connect to the preamp box that I use with that stealth. check it out. I think its the same, and man, I would love that in a 90° angle!

jb63 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 22, 2020 11:15 am I may be a little late, but I use gumbo's custom Synth•Linx 13-pin Jack Kits:

https://www.vguitarforums.com/smf/index ... pic=8888.0

They are perfect for what you are doing!

hello,
thx for jumping in
never too late....
saw that... on bay too...
but want it more reliable... need to move ...
so that's the only other solution to use those...

here is my Parker nearly finished...
just polished her and changed a toggle to black...
get now a c&k (on)off(on) momentary toggle that fit's perfect for that hole...
the connectors are also on my way... and juggernout too
changed also the wiring to the attache one... that John Petrucci uses in his PRS...
very happy with it now... all the best
M.