the Fly Clone Project

Patzag wrote: ↑Sun Jun 04, 2023 6:59 pm Does anyone know of a source for a Tocos Master pot?

The original Tocos pot is linked as the “alt” option in the main post, but it’s been discontinued.

Are you looking for something to fit the footprint of your flex PCB?

vjmanzo wrote: ↑Sun Jun 04, 2023 9:26 pm
Are you looking for something to fit the footprint of your flex PCB?

Yes.
I do have one spare from an old Hardtail that I mangled to make the chrome boy. So I'm not "dying" but it would have been nice to replace the original pot with an identical model.

Hi,
looking at the Parts list.. I see for Bridge bearing post and post bushing both longer AND shorter versions are listed.
Can you help me clarify the difference and where each is used? different models of the Fly? or maybe I just don't understand how they work exactly.. (I was not able to remove the c-rings and let the bushings out.. so I have no idea how long they are)
In case which of the parts below should I buy as replacements in a Deluxe Pre-refined?

-Bridge Bearing Posts (longer version) — modeled
-Bridge Bearing Posts (shorter version) — modeled
-Bridge Post Bushing (longer version) — modeled
-Bridge Post Bushings (shorter version) — forthcoming

thanks in advance,
Andrea

Hi @nuovonormale—yes, happy to help clarify: the bass side of the vibrato bridge Fly has a shorter bridge post and post bushing as shown in the image in the original post above.

Regarding that c ring, you need c ring pliers like this in order to get them out.

That being said, you can raise the posts by turning a hex wrench under the bushings (back of your Fly) without the need to remove the c rings if you’re simply trying to remove the bridge.

vjmanzo wrote: ↑Sat Jul 15, 2023 7:50 pm you can raise the posts by turning a hex wrench under the bushings (back of your Fly) without the need to remove the c rings if you’re simply trying to remove the bridge.

I plan to just cover those C rings with tape when I paint my Flys

hi @vjmanzo thanks as always for your help.
I had looked at that photo more couple of times but didn't notice the different lenghts of the two "sides".
I finally tried to glue my partially lifted fret today (I'll expand on that on the original thread) and to avoid removing the (new) strings, removed the bridge instead .. so I had a chance to measure the posts length..
the bass side is around 3.0 cm while the treble is more like 3.3-3.4 cm, as you said.
so I realized that a couple of spare posts I have is not matched correctly (both being of the longer type)!!
cheers
andrea

Hello everyone! I have a Parker Fly Deluxe with a broken master volume pot. So does anyone know where I could find a 10k stereo pot with the same length of coil?

Rauno
Finland

Hello Fly lovers.

My story of interest in these fine instruments was seeing a Fly advertisement in Guitar Player in 1994 and was intrigued. So I soon ordered an all white 1994 Fly Deluxe which is in mint condition and I am still very happy to own. What an incredible guitar. I am a hobbyist/collector and am fortunate to own a 1953/'57 Les Paul conversion bought in 1977, a '67 Tele and an early Custom Shop relic Strat from '97 among others. Each are absolutely incredible instruments to play. But every time I play my Fly, I rediscover just how awesome the Parker Fly is. The tremolo is butter smooth, and the balance and tone you get between the mag and piezo pups is outstanding and so musically inspiring. And those stainless frets play and bend effortlessly like you're on ice skates.

But the one question I do have is about function of the magnetic pickup selector switch when in the middle position. When in the middle on mine, instead of what I would expect to be a good balance of both mag pups together, I get a sort of shrill half volume tone that is not very useful. I wasn't sure whether it was supposed to function as I would expect and activate both neck and bridge mag pickups. And it does this independent of whether I include the piezo or not with the other selector switch. And it means I never use that middle position.

I wondered if anyone else experienced this or had some perspective to share.
Much appreciated.
-sd

White94FlyDeluxe wrote: ↑Wed Jan 03, 2024 2:01 am Hello Fly lovers.

My story of interest in these fine instruments was seeing a Fly advertisement in Guitar Player in 1994 and was intrigued. So I soon ordered an all white 1994 Fly Deluxe which is in mint condition and I am still very happy to own. What an incredible guitar. I am a hobbyist/collector and am fortunate to own a 1953/'57 Les Paul conversion bought in 1977, a '67 Tele and an early Custom Shop relic Strat from '97 among others. Each are absolutely incredible instruments to play. But every time I play my Fly, I rediscover just how awesome the Parker Fly is. The tremolo is butter smooth, and the balance and tone you get between the mag and piezo pups is outstanding and so musically inspiring. And those stainless frets play and bend effortlessly like you're on ice skates.

But the one question I do have is about function of the magnetic pickup selector switch when in the middle position. When in the middle on mine, instead of what I would expect to be a good balance of both mag pups together, I get a sort of shrill half volume tone that is not very useful. I wasn't sure whether it was supposed to function as I would expect and activate both neck and bridge mag pickups. And it does this independent of whether I include the piezo or not with the other selector switch. And it means I never use that middle position.

I wondered if anyone else experienced this or had some perspective to share.
Much appreciated.
-sd

Hi!
The middle position is supposed to emulate the position 2 or 4 of a strat by splitting the pickups. I also did not like the tone so I tied the 2 wires that split the coil so that middle position is now both humbuckers together. I find this a much better solution for me.

That's very helpful, thanks Patzak.

Follow-up on the middle mag pickup selector switch mod to remove the split coil function and make it a normal join of both neck and bridge pickups. Is that mod easy and straight for a novice with a soldering iron or tricky or risky and you'd advise to take it in to a luthier?

White94FlyDeluxe wrote: ↑Mon Jan 08, 2024 6:47 pm Follow-up on the middle mag pickup selector switch mod to remove the split coil function and make it a normal join of both neck and bridge pickups. Is that mod easy and straight for a novice with a soldering iron or tricky or risky and you'd advise to take it in to a luthier?

Extraordinarily easy.
1. Open up the cavity cover - 7 or 9 screws (Can't remember)
2. Locate the 3-way switch
3. Warm up your iron
4. Remove the Neck Red and Green from the switch - Make sure they're still tied together and put a bit of electrical tape on the "live" end to prevent a short.
5. Do the same with the Black/white from the bridge pickup.
6. Close it up and play!

See diagram below ...

Awesome! Thanks so much, I can't wait to try that!

Success! I managed with my large hands to detach the mag wire sets from the switch and it works great. The middle position is usable for the first time since 1995! It gives a nice glassy tone, but I notice I do need to roll off the tone to 2-3 for a nice balanced tone.
Thanks again!
I also took some pics of it and will post them on the Show Your Fly site.

Hello Everyone,

I'm looking to buy 16 neck mounting bolts (screws?) and 16 neck mounting ferrules (inserts?) that go with them for the Parker Nitefly. Can anyone help me?

Thanks.

Hi all, first post here... what a beautiful project! I read the post of Ken Parker about stainless steel frets and his preference (in that moment in time, at least) for Jescar EVO wire, but I wonder which kind of standard frets (with tangs) should I buy and are sold in Europe, possibly, to have the same exact fret width and height of my 1995 fly deluxe, and hopefully be of similar quality?

Thanks!

Welcome!

Until someone else chimes in, @Rbmusica, I'll point out that the tangless Fly fret wire was supposedly the hardest formulation that the factory could extrude; with tanged formulations necessarily being softer due to the malleability requirement. So Jescar stainless, EVO gold, etc. are not going to be nearly as tough as the Fly fretwire - But are still plenty resilient for most players' needs.

According to the below quoted post from VJ, the closest common fretwire profile spec to what was on '90s Flys is 6105 "tall/narrow." You should be able to find wire with that profile in nickel/silver and stainless steel alloys.

vjmanzo wrote: ↑Tue Dec 01, 2020 7:01 pm the pre-refined Fly frets are most likely similar in size to 6105 fret wire, which is standardized to .047" height and 095" width.

Thanks, really useful info!

I have been attempting to buy some spare parts that are readily available for my 28 year old Fly Classic. I have never had a single issue with it but I want to be prepared because I would hate to be without it.

I was looking at the link for the magnetic pickup switch:

-Three-way magnetic pickup switch (on-on-on) [original by C&K]

It links to a C&K 7211 ON-ON-ON DPDT switch. But in the wiring diagrams for the fly it shows a 4PDT switch


I know the wiring diagram image states it is a 4P3T switch, but based on the functional description in the Switch Comparison document it appears to be a 4PDT since the poles are the number of separate circuits (i.e. 4 common pins) and the throw is the number of possible connections each of the 4 poles can have. There are only 2 possible connections for each pole. With the switch in one position all 4 are connected to one group of pins, in the other postion all polls are connected to a different group of pins, then in the middle position 2 poles are connected to one group and the other 2 poles are connected to a different group of pins.

But when you look at page 2 of the data sheet for the C&K switches the 7211 that is linked to in the parts list is shown as a DPDT (it only has 6 pins to connect to). But the 7411 on page 3 of the data sheet is a 4PDT ON-ON-ON with 12 pins like the one in the Fly wiring diagram. Also, the 7411 appears to have the switch logic table of the original switch when I compare it to the description in the Switch Comparison document linked to above.

Am I missing something or would the 7411 be the correct switch to buy and not the 7211? I am not sure what configuration is needed to match the original. The 7211 switched linked to in the parts list is a T1 actuator and that does appear to be the correct one (0.487" high and .240 thick). I assume Z (solder lug) termination would also be desired, but C (PC Thru-hole) would also likely be fine.

The 7411T1 parts listed on the C&K Website that have solder lugs are:

7411T1CWZBE sealed bushing, bright chrome actuator
*7411T1CWZBE2 sealed bushing, black actuator
7411T1CWZBE22 sealed bushing, black actuator, black bushing
7411T1CWZQE sealed bushing, higher current rated, bright chrome actuator
7411T1PZQE anti rotation actuator, unsealed, 5A current rated, bright chrome actuator
7411T1ZGE unsealed, 5A current rated, bright chrome actuator
7411T1ZQE unsealed, 5A current rated, bright chrome actuator
7411T1ZQE22 unsealed, 5A current rated, black actuator, black bushing

For the parametric search I selected "4P", "4PDT", "On-On-On", "Solder Lug" "12.37mm" to get the above part numbers.

The only one I could find in stock anywhere was the one marked with * and it has a black actuator. I also found limited stock of the 7411T1CWCQE (PC Pin instead of solder lug). I also found a 7411T1CWV8QE but I am not sure what the V8 termination is, but it might also work. Many of the others listed above can be ordered, but the minimum QTY is 50.

@lemmy999, I'm inclined to agree for an additional reason: My (admittedly faulty) memory is that the stock Fly selector switch is functionally identical to the commonly available Dimarzio EP1111, which is 4PDT on-on-on. I think the reason no one else has pointed that out is because so few owners have had the original selector switch go bad, and those who did likely replaced it with the Dimarzio switch (or, in my case, the much cheaper and unbranded Chinese version, which can typically be found on eBay by searching "4PDT on-on-on"). I must disclaim, however, that I have no firsthand experience with replacing the original selector switch with any of the others I've mentioned in the context of the Fly ribbon assembly to say if it is an exact, 1:1 replacement.

Thanks for taking the time to detail your thoughts and findings - They are very well-presented.