Fly bridge install issues

[Mike987]

I recently got a fly mojo that I’m working on. I have Parker factory custom shop parts like a gold bridge I’m installing on it. Since the old bridge was removed, I can’t for the life of me get the posts and the inserts threaded properly. Everytime I get the screws in both of them, the low E string side of the bridge is too high. Is there a process to this? Turn the screw into the post and then back into the insert that holds it to the guitar? This is a later model mojo If it makes a difference. The kind with the little truss rod cover in the middle of the headstock. Not sure if it makes a difference. I used the same posts and all as the ones that had the black bridge in it. I took it with me out of state when I was snowed in and spent 3 hours threading it in one way and then the other way. I cannot get this bridge low enough! I tried google and all I can find is info on adjusting the bridge height. Only problem is I had the screws completely out for the bridge swap. Thankfully my wife is a heavy sleeper. She is not aware of this guitar yet.

By the way I had to go visit my kids out of state so I haven’t gotten to mess with the electronics stuff on my fly deluxe yet. It was kind of an unexpected trip. Snow storm and all that fun stuff. I’m extremely slow and clumsy with soldering so I’m going to need some time for that!

I feel like quite the dumdum here.

[Mike987]

It just maxes out like it’s at its lowest point. It’s definitely not though because the insert on the backside isn’t flush with the guitar.

Another thought, I did not keep track of the posts, but is it possible that they are different on each side of the bridge?

[vjmanzo]

Hi @Mike987—congrats on the new Mojo, but sorry to hear of the difficulty here. I bet we can figure out what's going on here—a couple photos or a video would be a big help. Is that possible?

[mmmguitar]

@Mike987, you may have hit the nail on the head with accidentally swapping the bridge posts (I once managed to do that after having taken the time to label each one - I think I slapped my forehead with both palms once I bottomed out on the low E side and realized what had happened). But, as VJ said, some illustration would be much appreciated in narrowing the cause of your issue down.

[vjmanzo]

Another thought, I did not keep track of the posts, but is it possible that they are different on each side of the bridge?

I missed this in your previous post-they are in fact different sizes; the bass side is shorter. There’s a photo with labels on the parts list page.

[Mike987]

Thanks for the quick replies!
Now that I’m looking at all of my stuff, I did bring some spare parts with me so I am NOT 100% sure that I may not have mixed up the original posts with my other ones.

That picture is with the screw turned to the point where it will not turn anymore and there is a good bit of play, so it is very well possible that I have the wrong size post. I just went to get my tools out of my bag and found two more posts and inserts. I would not bet money on ruling out that I didn’t accidentally grab one of my other posts or inserts or put them on in the wrong order. I’m about to remove them and check it out.

[vjmanzo]

Thanks for this. The arm itself is what’s shorter on the bass side; the part that goes inside the bushing.

Also, check the image on the parts page to ensure you have the entire assembly for the bridge posts, which includes a belleville washer.

#VibratoBridge

[Mike987]

I just took out ALL of my spare posts and lined them up and now I can REALLY see the difference! There’s the shorty! I guess that means all of my other ones are tall ones. This makes a lot of sense. I probably got my spare set in my gig bag mixed in when I was doing my secret guitar work while my wife was asleep. I was so certain that I used both of the original posts but I guess not. Or they may have been flip flopped. I’m not sure. I just took them both out and lined them up with my other ones. Thanks again guys! I was really losing my mind there.

[Mike987]

Thanks for this. The arm itself is what’s shorter on the bass side; the part that goes inside the bushing.

Also, check the image on the parts page to ensure you have the entire assembly for the bridge posts, which includes a belleville washer.

#VibratoBridge

Actually, while looking over this guitar and the bridge assembly link, I am noticing something else..

I normally put a block of wood in the back of my flys since I don’t use a trem bar so this didn’t cross my inspection of the guitar earlier. I don’t have the little step stop thingy in mine. The plastic piece that moves side to side for trem adjustments that I typically don’t use anyway. Did they have these in the later model Parker flys? Also, I do have some washers and stuff in my parts pile, but all that was installed on this guitar was the bridge with the posts and inserts. The story about this guitar is that it was to leave the Parker factory but had a flaw in the finish and it was sanded down and never re assembled before Parker closed down. I have never owned a fly with the truss rod adjustment in the middle of the head stock so I’m unaware of any other changes that may have been made in those years. The guy I got it from had a luthier throw everything together and wire some less than stellar pickups in it. I have new pickups on the way today. I have a feeling the guy didn’t know what he was doing though.

[Patzag]

Thanks for this. The arm itself is what’s shorter on the bass side; the part that goes inside the bushing.

Also, check the image on the parts page to ensure you have the entire assembly for the bridge posts, which includes a belleville washer.

#VibratoBridge

Actually, while looking over this guitar and the bridge assembly link, I am noticing something else..

I normally put a block of wood in the back of my flys since I don’t use a trem bar so this didn’t cross my inspection of the guitar earlier. I don’t have the little step stop thingy in mine. The plastic piece that moves side to side for trem adjustments that I typically don’t use anyway. Did they have these in the later model Parker flys? Also, I do have some washers and stuff in my parts pile, but all that was installed on this guitar was the bridge with the posts and inserts. The story about this guitar is that it was to leave the Parker factory but had a flaw in the finish and it was sanded down and never re assembled before Parker closed down. I have never owned a fly with the truss rod adjustment in the middle of the head stock so I’m unaware of any other changes that may have been made in those years. The guy I got it from had a luthier throw everything together and wire some less than stellar pickups in it. I have new pickups on the way today. I have a feeling the guy didn’t know what he was doing though.

Sounds like an awesome project. The newer Fly does not have a manual switch for the trim. It had a piece the needs a steel rod inserted in order to turn. But functionally it's the same thing. Whether old or new, the trem system is virtually identical.
Pictures always help.

[billy]

Just as an aside, you can put a set screw of the right height as a way to make a little built in lever. (Vs the rod).

One other consideration is that the bushings that are pressed into the wood are too close to the face of the guitar. I’m not sure if the factory made those holes a bit deeper to allow for the plastic stabilization rings (leaning posts).

If so, or regardless, you may want to add those or perhaps push the “too high” bushings gently towards the back of the guitar. Depending on who did the work they may have messed up the press fit enough that the bushings slide easily.

Hopefully swapping in the shorter post will do it for you though.