Parker Fly Deluxe vs Mojo

[Gregsaab]

One aspect that I think is better on the refined is the tremolo arm and insert.

I actually replaced the rounded bushing arm on my refined with a spare hex bushing because of how much I prefer the hex bushing/arm.

Why do you prefer it?

[vjmanzo]

Why do you prefer it?

There are a few reasons I feel this way—my opinion, of course, but the primary reason for me is that the hex design seems to have few design advantages: it comes into contact with more of the bushing so that when you move the arm, pressure is more evenly distributed on the bushing whereas with the round bar, I feel like I’m pushing a small section of the bar into contact with a small part of the plastic bushing and the rest of the bridge is following along from that single point of contact. <—this is entirely anecdotal; I do not have a bit of actual evidence to support that, but that’s what i think is happening.

Another design advantage is that the hex arm snaps into a bushing shape that, by design, has a better chance of holding the arm in place: unless the hex bushing itself rotates, that arm isn’t going anywhere. The rounded bar design doesn’t function that way.

[Gregsaab]

Why do you prefer it?

There are a few reasons I feel this way—my opinion, of course, but the primary reason for me is that the hex design seems to have few design advantages: it comes into contact with more of the bushing so that when you move the arm, pressure is more evenly distributed on the bushing whereas with the round bar, I feel like I’m pushing a small section of the bar into contact with a small part of the plastic bushing and the rest of the bridge is following along from that single point of contact. <—this is entirely anecdotal; I do not have a bit of actual evidence to support that, but that’s what i think is happening.

Another design advantage is that the hex arm snaps into a bushing shape that, by design, has a better chance of holding the arm in place: unless the hex bushing itself rotates, that arm isn’t going anywhere. The rounded bar design doesn’t function that way.

I can understand that intuition, it makes sense. Mechanically, the pre-refined is more interesting and functional.

However, I do prefer the feel of the rounded tremolo - insertion feels smoother in that there isn’t a slight scraping sound or jitter. This is super minor, but it’s something that I notice

[Voice Of Reason]

Isn’t the refined arm holder prone to cracking? An extra part = extra problems IMHO.

[reverend-kansas]

My soon-to-be Mojo is enrolee. I should have it in hand tomorrow evening.

[reverend-kansas]

The Mojo I am expecting has 2 lifting frets. The fretboard appears to be fine, with no lifting or chipping anywhere. The frets are not fully off, just lifting on the bass side. The seller stated that the guitar has been unplayed and in its case for 5 years. Are fixing lifted frets as easy as wicking some super glue underneath them and clamping them down? If so, is a spring loaded capo sufficient pressure?

70372760254__96964E03-4DC6-4C15-8058-5309000DD140 Medium by Boytbpc, on Flickr

70372756385__4BBD44E4-9080-4417-9B8A-8A1AB17A0333 Medium by Boytbpc, on Flickr

[vjmanzo]

Are fixing lifted frets as easy as wicking some super glue underneath them and clamping them down? If so, is a spring loaded capo sufficient pressure?

It’s essentially what you described, but you have to make sure that the fret is clamped down evenly with no crud underneath it and at the right height. I would definitely take it to a qualified tech that works with frets even though the process is straightforward. You’re in a better position than those whose frets are off the fretboard, but if you get the fret glued down improperly you’re not gonna be happy

Here’s a helpful post Ken wrote that applies somewhat to your process.

[reverend-kansas]

The Eagle Has Landed.

IMG_5809 Medium by Boytbpc, on Flickr

IMG_5807 Medium by Boytbpc, on Flickr

IMG_5808 Medium by Boytbpc, on Flickr

[Gregsaab]

Let us know how the re-lamination works out for you. My Mojo has been great since the repair.

[Patzag]

@Jupiter - Check this out ... No idea what the price is. (I don't speak greek!)

https://smart.noiz.gr/details.php?id=545221

EDIT: I think this is your Wanted ad!
Ha ha ha

[Jupiter]

@Jupiter - Check this out ... No idea what the price is. (I don't speak greek!)

https://smart.noiz.gr/details.php?id=545221

EDIT: I think this is your Wanted ad!
Ha ha ha

You got it. That's me! (hey, I ALWAYS do what I say, I told you guys I would put an ad locally)

Allow me to translate it for you:

Picture: Just a random Fly I found on the internet
Type of Ad: Want To Buy
Title: Parker Fly (Deluxe, Classic, Mojo etc.)

"I am looking to buy yet another Parker Fly (Deluxe, Classic, Mojo etc.), I am not interested in Nitefly, Pxx etc. models, it must NOT be a bolt-on model, it must have piezo and a Parker tremolo system (not a Floyd Rose, not double locking etc.).

Good news is, I DO NOT care about:
- The colour
- Production year (either refined or pre-refined is fine by me)
- Chips and dings on the body or at the end of the headstock
- Hard case, gigbag etc.
- Tools

But:
- Everything should work as intended (pups, piezo, switches, pots, truss rod, step stop, wheel tension etc.)
- The neck, fretboard, frets etc. must be in a great condition (no dings, chips, cracks across and around the neck from the nut all the way to the neck meets the body)
- It should at least come with the 9's spring gauge
- It should come with the original tremolo arm
- In no way and for no reason whatsoever it should be repainted on top of the old paint or otherwise (especially if the neck is repainted too, and if the serial number is underneath the paint, don't even bother, that's a red flag)***

If you have one of these and it's OK with you to part with it, just shoot me a message and we'll take it from there"

*** Yes, I had to be very specific about it because not long time ago, there was a pre-refined Fly Deluxe exactly like that. Some mofo had repainted the whole thing (including the neck) with a grainy finish!!! I repeat, GRAINY FINISH! Yes, the back of the neck too! Who the heck does that! Certainly not a player. I bet that guitar was stollen because guess what, the serial number was underneath that stupid grainy finish. I contacted that guy, he stalled me for three bloody weeks and then I managed to speak with him on the phone...99% that guitar was stollen (you know, a "friend" of his owed him money so he gave him two guitars instead, one of these was the Fly, and blah blah blah BS)...I passed the moment I realised that the neck had that stupid grainy finish as well. I mean, If I want remove dead skin from my left palm of make it bleed, I have better ways to do it...I've played with glossy, matt and unfinished necks (Ernieball guitars), but grainy? WTF...

PS: I thought I saw a TGP WTB ad of yours a few days ago, Pat! I think it was for an Artist model, don't see it anymore. Small world huh? Parker addicts united, lol...

[Patzag]

PS: I thought I saw a TGP WTB ad of yours a few days ago, Pat! I think it was for an Artist model, don't see it anymore. Small world huh? Parker addicts united, lol...

Thanks for the translation. Yes, you have to be somewhat alert of scams and such. )Note that there is a "stealth" model that looks and might feel grainy. I never had one in hand so I don't know how it actually feels.)

I put an ad on the Fractal forum. Don't recall TGP - but might have. I stay way from that place generally!

[Jupiter]

Thanks for the translation. Yes, you have to be somewhat alert of scams and such. )Note that there is a "stealth" model that looks and might feel grainy. I never had one in hand so I don't know how it actually feels.)

No worries, thanks for the info!

That specific guitar wasn't a stealth model for sure, the colour was black marble or something but it doesn't matter because we know it was repainted (so, bye bye serial number as well).

I put an ad on the Fractal forum. Don't recall TGP - but might have. I stay way from that place generally!

Naaah, obviously you're right it was on the Fractal forum, don't mind me, I AM GETTING OLD!!! My mind is slowly slowly turning into yogurt or something...

[Gregsaab]

Back to the discussion on refined vs pre-refined trem arms — do your pre-refined Fly’s have any play between the arm and the bushing? Both of mine have ever-so-slight play, which results in an annoying little sound, especially with quick trem flutters.

Could I rectify that by adding a tiny bit more bend to the arm?

[vjmanzo]

do your pre-refined Fly’s have any play between the arm and the bushing?

No, and I consider that to be one of the best features of the original bushing design.

Could I rectify that by adding a tiny bit more bend to the arm?

I did that on one of my rounded arms, but if I recall correctly, I had better results by putting a small piece of gaffer’s tape on the bar—a layer or two added a little mass and it held in place better; it’s not great though.

If I’m being honest, typing the previous sentence made me just a little sour on USM’s decision to change the bushing.

[Gregsaab]

Example of play:

It’s especially annoying because it gets picked up by piezo.

[Neongreenman]

- Expect a heavier instrument with a thicker body/neck.

This is only true if it's a US Music model. I am an avid fan of the original Mojo's made in MA under Ken. My 03 and early 04 Mojos are not thicker than my other pre-refiner Parkers.

Heavier sure. It's a mahogany neck compared to basswood.

[ThePedroDB]

I'm a bit late to the party, as you've already purchased. How are you getting on with your Mojo?

I've had my 2008 model for a few years now with zero issues. Tonally, it has become my favourite Fly. More mid-range/less treble focussed. Smoother/'more rounded' etc. It is noticeably 'chunkier' feeling than a pre-refined Fly (both in neck and body) and weighs approx. 1lb more. So, around 6lbs rather than 5. 20% more mass is noticeable...

Functionally (and in common with other refined models):
(1) the Toggle switches definitely feel of lesser quality but a periodic squirt of contact cleaner keeps them operating 'crackle free'
(2) the Battery Box is also lesser quality but works fine - the electrical connections just requires a bit more care when removing the backplate. I keep thinking about adding quick release connectors but have never got round to it
(3) removal of the Stereo switch and Tension Wheel access has caused no issues
(4) I can see how removal of the Step-stop switch could be less convenient in a gig situation but it hasn't bothered me