Hello! Long time Fly Supreme owner, just found this forum! (And need a little help...)

[DOGGOD Productions]

Hey there, all! So excited to have found this page, just when I thought there wasnt nearly enough of a community surrounding these amazing instruments!
I have an original 1998 Fly Supreme in that delightful tangerine/honey color on a body that is a single piece of excellent maple (it's either the Big Leaf maple or a 5A curly maple, been so long since I've bought it, i can't remember, but I know it's from an extremely limited run that Mr Parker himself worked on with Larry Fischman).
I've had this guitar for about 15 years, and I've always loved it to bits. It's certainly one of the biggest stars of my collection, and easily one of the best playing, best sounding guitars I've ever come across.
Unfortunately, upon a recent string change, somehow the top of one of the bridge nuts broke off (nut is probably not the right term), leaving the body of the nut stuck in the bridge, and as a result, the acoustic pickup no longer registers any tone from the low E string (same string the "bridge nut" broke on, and that "nut" is clearly magnetic and a part of the "electric acoustic" pickup).
Now this is obviously the original version of the Fly Supreme bridge, I've been looking for replacements and other solutions to no avail and it was beginning to seem a bit hopeless considering how unique every part of that guitar is, in obvious addition to the fact that Parker no longer exists.
This forum is the first ray of hope I've found in searching for a solution to this problem.
Sooo, has anybody out there ever experienced this problem? If so, could there be a solution other than replacing the bridge, or if it's necessary, where might I be able to find the proper bridge? There are plenty of the American Music - era revised bridges out there, but I can't seem to find one that I'm sure is the right part. I would also need to find someone to install it that actually knows their way around these guitars, as it's been quite a challenge to find someone who does, given the unorthodox nature of, well, everything about the Fly Supreme. I've taken it to the best techs I know (and consulted plenty others) and most folks seem nervous about even working on it, and the ones who are willing haven't been able to find the proper solution for this particular problem. So any help you good people could provide would be MASSIVELY appreciated.

Thanks in advance, and again, I'm just SO happy to find a community of fellow Fly-lovers!

[mmmguitar]

Welcome to the forum (albeit under unfortunate circumstances), @DOGGOD Productions. Please post photos of the issue you’re having. Are you saying that the portion of the low E saddle containing the piezo element broke off?

If the issue is indeed the saddle, then the good news is that the saddles themselves are designed to be replaced quite easily; and are one of the few Fly parts still being produced. The bad news is that the only version being produced is the Graphtech Ghost saddle; which visually differs the most from the other iterations, and may not sound as good running into your Fly’s 1990s Fishman preamp due to an impedance mismatch between eras of hardware. If you want to find an exact (year-specific) replacement for your saddle, then I’m afraid you’ll need to find another 90’s-era Fly owner willing to sell theirs; as parts from that era haven’t been produced in over twenty years.

If I’m misunderstanding; and the the issue is that the head of the intonation screw broke off, then it will need to be extracted and replaced.

Being as you used your business as your username, I hope I’m not disrespecting your privacy when I say that I don’t know any Fly-specific techs in the Bay Area or central Cali (at least since I stopped working there). Hopefully other CA owners will chime in.

If you’re willing to ship your baby further up the coastline, I can vouch that Dayn Warren in Washington is one of the best Parker-specializing techs you’ll find (I had him take on two of my Fly projects at different times where I was bogged down with work; and have only good things to say).

[jjozwia]

If you are talking about knocking one of the balls out of the two ball style saddles it's a quick fix

Some smart person on original Parker forum recommended using a RC car part - Losi Differential Balls 3/32" (12) A-3009 (LOSA3009):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275159049138?h ... SwdhxiAqDG

Use a tooth pick to put just a spec of super glue in the socket where the ball was then drop one in and gently press it down. Output will be a little lower at first but should increase as fully cures in a couple days

Don't think Losi makes those specific ones anymore so hunt & peck ebay or believe these are the same thing, want to say the Losi's were stainless steel
https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-Diff-Bal ... B0006O5IZW

Cheers & GL!

[vjmanzo]

@jjozwia is right that we’ve had several members order the balls noted in this thread.

@DOGGOD Productions, I second mmmguitar’s welcome () as well as the request for more info, if you would. If it is, in fact, a matter of replacing the screw that holds the saddle in place, you can find that part on the Parts page.

[DOGGOD Productions]

Hey guys! Thanks so much for the warm welcome and extremely helpful info, sorry I didn't respond sooner!
I will take some pics of my Fly in the morning and get them posted up so you guys can see what I'm talking about precisely, but I do believe that @mmmguitar has hit the nail on the head.
The Piezo element breaking off of the low E saddle is most definitely what happened. Also you're totally right @mmmguitar, I am indeed in the Bay Area! Not at all a privacy issue so no worries.
Is the impedance issue with the Graphtech strictly an issue when the Piezo is on, or is it an "all the time" issue? I obviously want the Piezo to be working right, but i dont use it too too often.
I actually wouldn't mind sending this beauty up to the tech in Washington you mentioned, especially seeing as he is one of the only Parker specialists I've even really heard of in recent memory. I have alot of great techs here in the Bay, but the Fly Supreme is just a little too weird and outside most of their comfort zones, and I think they really worry about all the "what if's" making a mistake could cause. I'll probably have to give Mr Warren a call, sounds like the right guy for the job, that's for sure.
In any case, as I said, I'll attach some pics later on when I get a chance so you guys can see for yourself .
Thanks again, and I'll be sure to check back here regularly from now on!

[vjmanzo]

Sounds good, @DOGGOD Productions—I can also attest to @dayn’s expertise as a Fly Tech you can trust.

[mmmguitar]

@DOGGOD Productions, did this project ever move forward? I ask being as Dayn hasn’t been by the board since February, and also to apologize for missing your last question concerning the nature of the Graphtech elements:

Graphtech elements put out a signal much hotter than competitors’; which results in higher levels of signal noise and crosstalk between saddles, as well as some Parker owners having reported the inputs of their older Fly Fishman boards being overdriven (the Powerchip piezo preamp, for example, has only output and phase controls; with no adjustable input level). I can confirm that my 13 pin Roland gear’s string sensitivity levels have to be turned down to accommodate the hotter Graphtech signal; which effectively results in a smaller dynamic range. It’s still perfectly usable, but certain uses require compensating for the quality of signal.

That and the Graphtech saddles being intended for hexaphonic summing via individual plugs to a Graphtech Acoustiphonic and/or Hexpander board, rather than the elements being summed to a solder point on the back of the bridge ala Fishman, has led me to recommend Fly and NiteFly owners dealing with failing Fishman elements simply replace everything Fishman with Graphtech (the Parker OEM that replaced Fishman) or RMC (better performance for 13 pin work, but more expensive).

[dayn]

Dayn hasn’t been by the board since February

Just checked in today, haven't been on guitar forums in a while (mostly building tube amps these days with occasional guitar stuff mixed in) - I'll try to adjust my message settings, so if anyone has any Fly questions or repair needs I can respond quickly.

[mmmguitar]

mostly building tube amps these days

Cool! I’ve been telling myself I’ll attempt an amp build once the Axe FX IV is announced (to see which I’d rather commit to). Anything you’re willing to share?

[dayn]

mostly building tube amps these days

Cool! I’ve been telling myself I’ll attempt an amp build once the Axe FX IV is announced (to see which I’d rather commit to). Anything you’re willing to share?

Happy to share - what do you want to know? Building amps is fun, but it took me a long time to wrap my head around what is going on electrically and a lot of practice and study to understand schematics, circuits, etc. If it is your first amp, something simple to start like a Champ or Princeton is often suggested. Or start with a couple pedal builds if you haven't already.

Tube amp and Axe-fx, completely different animals in regards to flexibility/tone/price/etc. - though both great, and useful tools.

[mmmguitar]

Happy to share - what do you want to know?

I'd love if you made a thread in the Rig Rundown section just boasting about some of your projects. I was thinking I'd build a 5E3 kit, then start modding it into my arbitrary concept of "Dumble" territory (not planning to reinvent the wheel - Just appreciating the artform).

[dayn]

Happy to share - what do you want to know?

I'd love if you made a thread in the Rig Rundown section just boasting about some of your projects. I was thinking I'd build a 5E3 kit, then start modding it into my arbitrary concept of "Dumble" territory (not planning to reinvent the wheel - Just appreciating the artform).

Easiest first glance ay my guitar and amp projects, would be to check out my Instagram: @liquidayno

5E3 with D mods sounds cool. Rob Robinette's site has lots of info on both.

[mmmguitar]

Here’s an on-topic video originally made by a guy in Vegas in 2019. Sadly, he couldn’t repair the saddle; and ended up sourcing a replacement.

[Paul Marossy]

Here’s an on-topic video originally made by a guy in Vegas in 2019. Sadly, he couldn’t repair the saddle; and ended up sourcing a replacement.

That's my video. I haven't totally given up on the idea of repairing it but I am having trouble finding conductive epoxy. Super Glue doesn't work because it acts like an insulator. I also tried graphite mixed in with the Super Glue and that didn't work either. I said in the video in a caption that maybe JB Weld might work, but I found out after uploading the video that it's not conductive either. It is possible to make your own piezo crystals but the problem there is that it has to be in a very specific form factor and who knows if the output will be correct - could be too hot or not hot enough.

Here's another thing that I found out when I received my rarer than rhodium replacement saddles - even the original Fly saddles have some variations. Apparently the design was tweaked a few times. The one saddle I replaced seems to have the same output as the others, but I can't tell if it's maybe slightly less or if it's just that pyshcoacoustics thing that has me second guessing myself. Anyway that replacement saddle is in the top E string position now, so if the output is actually a touch less that's OK because it will just help keep that string from sounding muddy/boomy. I'm going to do a short video in the near future on the differences between the two original saddles I have just to put it out there.

[mmmguitar]

I'm going to do a short video in the near future on the differences between the two original saddles I have just to put it out there.

Awesome - Thanks, Paul. The older those Flys get, the more valuable firsthand troubleshooting documentation becomes.

[vjmanzo]

The older those Flys get, the more valuable firsthand troubleshooting documentation becomes.

+1 to that comment! And agreed: thanks for doing that, Paul

[Paul Marossy]

The older those Flys get, the more valuable firsthand troubleshooting documentation becomes.

+1 to that comment! And agreed: thanks for doing that, Paul

Thanks. Glad someone out there thinks so. It's a shame that Parker is now defunct. Car manufacturers must be very happy that people don't say "OMG it doesn't look like a '55 Chevy" or "Why can't it look like a '55 Chevy?" when they put a new car out on the market. I guess there will always be the DeLorean or Edsels of the world.

[vjmanzo]

Car manufacturers must be very happy that people don't say "OMG it doesn't look like a '55 Chevy" or "Why can't it look like a '55 Chevy?" when they put a new car out on the market.

We’ll said, Paul. Did you ever read this interview Ken have with the New Yorker?
https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2007 ... -and-frets

He conveys similar sentiments to yours about the relatively conservative guitar market/guitarist sensibilities when it comes to the notion of “innovation” (what it is, what it looks like, it’s practicality, etc.)

[Paul Marossy]

Car manufacturers must be very happy that people don't say "OMG it doesn't look like a '55 Chevy" or "Why can't it look like a '55 Chevy?" when they put a new car out on the market.

We’ll said, Paul. Did you ever read this interview Ken have with the New Yorker?
https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2007 ... -and-frets

He conveys similar sentiments to yours about the relatively conservative guitar market/guitarist sensibilities when it comes to the notion of “innovation” (what it is, what it looks like, it’s practicality, etc.)

Yep I did!

[Gregsaab]

We’ll said, Paul. Did you ever read this interview Ken have with the New Yorker?
https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2007 ... -and-frets

This is an excellent article.