My pleasure. I already have 27 guitars, but not a Fly, all this talk is making me consider one
P-38, Lace Sensors, Piezo, Schaller Switch.
Re: P-38, Lace Sensors, Piezo, Schaller Switch.
Re: P-38, Lace Sensors, Piezo, Schaller Switch.
@monchavo, here are some (crummy) photos of the smaller powerchip and mag/piezo selector switch:
Being as it’s not clear in the photos: The red/white wires soldered to the top of the board and braided together in the sheath are the mag/piezo stereo output to the appropriate contacts on the jack, with the bare wire from the underside of the board wrapped up with them going to ground.
Being as it’s not clear in the photos: The red/white wires soldered to the top of the board and braided together in the sheath are the mag/piezo stereo output to the appropriate contacts on the jack, with the bare wire from the underside of the board wrapped up with them going to ground.
Re: P-38, Lace Sensors, Piezo, Schaller Switch.
This is exceptionally useful. Thank you. I really appreciate it.mmmguitar wrote: ↑Wed Aug 04, 2021 4:01 pm @monchavo, here are some (crummy) photos of the smaller powerchip and mag/piezo selector switch
Being as it’s not clear in the photos: The red/white wires soldered to the top of the board and braided together in the sheath are the mag/piezo stereo output to the appropriate contacts on the jack, with the bare wire from the underside of the board wrapped up with them going to ground.
Just when I thought everything was going smoothly, a strange spanner has been thrown in the works.
The chap who owns the guitar did a "dry fit" of the Schaller switch. He notes that the switching mechanism on the Schaller fouls the tone pot when installed on the plate. He notes that flipping the switch around means that the flat side of the switch faces the pots and then does NOT foul the pot.
This seems to be a simple solution which would then require the wiring to the switch simply to be "inverted".... I am unclear if the switch would support this and if that would result in any other side effects. Is it just a simple matter of flipping the wiring diagram around?
Thanks again for your help.
Re: P-38, Lace Sensors, Piezo, Schaller Switch.
It seems to me that swapping the pickup leads soldered to contacts 2 and 3 would reverse the throw of the switch for this purpose. Of course, the commons used for the tone pot-outs would be affected, as well.
Summary of the Parker Guitars speculator market from 2020 onward: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greater_fool_theory
Re: P-38, Lace Sensors, Piezo, Schaller Switch.
After a significant delay I am intending to travel over to my friend's house and do the soldering which will hopefully complete this project, this week.
I'll share pictures.
Thanks again for everyone's help.
Re: P-38, Lace Sensors, Piezo, Schaller Switch.
I am just trying to help
Before it is said & done I will become the master of the Fly's Electronics trying to fix the one I am currently working on..
Just something I noticed looking at your 1st Photo
The jumper I will call it is plugged into a different place than the one I am working on, Mine might be wrong too..
I know enough about electronics to work on homes & cars & am limited to guitar workings but the Fly's are wired different than any others I have seen.
Most of this wiring is fairly simple compared to electronics used now days in computers etc.
I am thinking the capacitors may be the problem on these 15+ year old boards.
Anyhow I will attach a photo of the 2007 Parker Fly Deluxe's wiring showing the board..
What I am calling a jumper is a small black housing that jumps two pins on the board near where the red power from the 9volt battery attaches..
The 2nd photo mmmguitar shows as being the same as the one I have here..
Here's a decent photo of the Fly deluxe Board from 2007
If I have too, I will be mailing this part to Larry Fishman to diagnose & repair..
Only wish my ole buddy Mean Marcus was still with us, He'd have that thing fixed in a few minutes..
I note: That I see cold solder joints which are dull & Not Shiny like they should be, Like they where soldered at too low of heat to join the parts as needed to allow current flow throughout the parts.. Just something I notice that I learned from the Master Mean Marcus.. RIP Ole Marcus..
Before it is said & done I will become the master of the Fly's Electronics trying to fix the one I am currently working on..
Just something I noticed looking at your 1st Photo
The jumper I will call it is plugged into a different place than the one I am working on, Mine might be wrong too..
I know enough about electronics to work on homes & cars & am limited to guitar workings but the Fly's are wired different than any others I have seen.
Most of this wiring is fairly simple compared to electronics used now days in computers etc.
I am thinking the capacitors may be the problem on these 15+ year old boards.
Anyhow I will attach a photo of the 2007 Parker Fly Deluxe's wiring showing the board..
What I am calling a jumper is a small black housing that jumps two pins on the board near where the red power from the 9volt battery attaches..
The 2nd photo mmmguitar shows as being the same as the one I have here..
Here's a decent photo of the Fly deluxe Board from 2007
If I have too, I will be mailing this part to Larry Fishman to diagnose & repair..
Only wish my ole buddy Mean Marcus was still with us, He'd have that thing fixed in a few minutes..
I note: That I see cold solder joints which are dull & Not Shiny like they should be, Like they where soldered at too low of heat to join the parts as needed to allow current flow throughout the parts.. Just something I notice that I learned from the Master Mean Marcus.. RIP Ole Marcus..
FLY ROD Formerly FLY Wheel
Re: P-38, Lace Sensors, Piezo, Schaller Switch.
Now you all have me looking for those two capacitors Marked
U2 10 16V with that odd base I have a bag full of capacitors that I repaired an electronic saxophone for my Son with.. IIRC a Bag of 100.. Hmmmm???
Will Have to look..
My Fluke should be able to test these but might have to be removed to get an accurate reading on them..
Just Thinking OUT LOUD..
Good Luck with the Repairs on these Parkers with Fishman Electronics
Gary
eBay maybe ---> https://www.ebay.com/itm/16V10MF454-Smd ... 2122626350
U2 10 16V with that odd base I have a bag full of capacitors that I repaired an electronic saxophone for my Son with.. IIRC a Bag of 100.. Hmmmm???
Will Have to look..
My Fluke should be able to test these but might have to be removed to get an accurate reading on them..
Just Thinking OUT LOUD..
Good Luck with the Repairs on these Parkers with Fishman Electronics
Gary
eBay maybe ---> https://www.ebay.com/itm/16V10MF454-Smd ... 2122626350
FLY ROD Formerly FLY Wheel
Re: P-38, Lace Sensors, Piezo, Schaller Switch.
We did the work today. It seems to have been successful. Thanks for everyone's help.
Re: P-38, Lace Sensors, Piezo, Schaller Switch.
Congrats, @monchavo.
Summary of the Parker Guitars speculator market from 2020 onward: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greater_fool_theory
Re: P-38, Lace Sensors, Piezo, Schaller Switch.
hey thanks man, couldn't have done without your incredible help
I've been working with guitars for thirty years .... the strangest thing is that when something works the first time --- you doubt yourself. The wiring seems to be working absolutely perfectly............
Re: P-38, Lace Sensors, Piezo, Schaller Switch.
seriously regretting this commitment right now
but.........i WILL do it
Re: P-38, Lace Sensors, Piezo, Schaller Switch.
Dear Fly Clone friends
A year has passed and the guitar which I rewired with your amazing help is still in operation and working fine
The soldering process was straightforward, the wiring setup worked FIRST TIME and everything went incredibly smoothly.
Thanks again for your help.
A year has passed and the guitar which I rewired with your amazing help is still in operation and working fine
The soldering process was straightforward, the wiring setup worked FIRST TIME and everything went incredibly smoothly.
Thanks again for your help.