Parker trem problems

[Parker Man]

I've have a couple parkers (early type). I installed 13pin access on both and have been a real parker fan-promoter for a lot of years. My Supreme is my main axe out of many guitars. Over the past few years I've had problems and was not able to make my guitar trem work right. I switched the hard tail button and hoped it would be better. It doesn't stay in tune. A couple shops charged me to set it up right. They were not successful.

I'm wondering if there is a good way to install another kind of trem (with 13 pin) so I can quit all of my trem problems. Does anyone have a suggestion. I would be very appreciative of any help I can get.

Hi Darvin @Parker Man—sorry to hear the issue. IMO it would be best to figure out where the problem is with your current bridge before trying to retrofit another bridge.

We can try to help; it would be best to start a new thread topic and post some photos.

Hello vjmanzo,
Thank you for your response. As far as my factory trem, it's pretty normal looking. I can put pictures up. I just know I've struggled with the original parker trem for many years. I really want to get rid of it and put something more reliable in it's place. Have you heard of anyone doing this successfully? I love my parker guitars and can't see me using anything else as my main guitar. I know springs are not available. I bout a few of the ones online for $40 each in hopes that I could avoid obsolescence. The whole trem Idea has never been a superior part of my guitars (my opinion). Have you or anyone on flyclone found a feasible alternative? I'm not apposed to fixing what I've got but no more springs is a worry.
Thanks,
DJ

[vjmanzo]

Hi @Parker Man,

Understood—when you say “something more reliable”, are you referring to tuning stability? Would you consider blocking your bridge like this?

The Fly vibrato bridge is really excellent, but it does have some potential points of failure, which is why I mentioned identifying those in my reply to your original post. If the spring is failing, replacing it with a wood block will fix that problem. If the posts are not seated properly in the wood (rare) then that’s something that can be fixed and, regardless: you’d need to know that before you consider using a different bridge.

The main difficulty with a different bridge altogether is adjusting the route to accommodate a new design. On the 12-string Fly, we machined a new bridge that fits in the same footprint as the original; I think some others have put Floyd’s on their Flys, but I’ve never heard of someone that preferred that to the original Fly bridge.

FWIW—I have several of my vibrato bridges blocked with wood as I don’t use the vibrato features very much and prefer the increased tuning stability when bending strings.

[jb63]

First things first!
We can help you identify the problem but you’ll need to be more specific. The only headache I can imagine that could cost you $$$ is if the wood on the mounting posts is giving out and that is highly unlikely with maple.

More likely you can adjust some of the adjustable parts and get it back into serviceable condition.

Pics always help.

The easiest solution would be illustrated in the trem guide booklet, where you should be able to get it back to factory specs.

Tell us a story with pictures!

[Parker Man]

Thanks for the response. I'm heading home in just a few days. I hate to sound ignorant but other than a pic after I take the back cover off I'm not sure what to tale pics of. I'll take pics of everything I can and post them.

Thanks again.