Hi,

I'm not sure what you mean by amylase, in this video, I use acetone to remove the cyano squeeze-out.
The brand is not important, it's just acetone.

I forgot to mention that the fretted .020" fingerboard was bonded to the basswood and later, mahogany necks with an additional layer of .010" thick prepreg fiberglass cloth. Essentially, this created a fingerboard that was 2/3 fiberglass/epoxy and 1/2 carbon fiber/epoxy measuring .030"...

The boards measured .020" or .5mm thick, the top half of the layup - .010 layer was woven fiberglass, the usual " 0 - 90 degree fiber orientation, and the bottom .010" layer was non-woven 0 degree AKA "uni" or unidirectional, that is, non-woven carbon fiber. These materials ...

How nice to hear this!

I love the howling canine!

We have some talented local Coyotes families that have arranged a "Battle of the Canines" for our amusement. These doggies have some fine pipes!

Keep the faith, and Thanks for your Enthusiasm!

Ken

Poplar isn’t winning any beauty contest in the "#1 - @10 Top” race mostly because of the delta between the greenish heartwood and the off-white, dirty cream almost color of the sapwood. The size of the trees being harvested in our time makes it nearly unavoidable that boards meeting our width s...

Of all the Fly guitars you built, which were your favorites? I love ALL my children, of course! My true faves have spruce or cedar bodies, so in spruce (one-piece of sitka spruce from out your way) it would be the “Artist” if you need the magnetics, and the “Concert” if you don’t. Cedar bodies were...

Notes on this article " The history of the Parker Fly " by Justin Beckner published by guitar.com (June 28, 2022) Most of the information is spot on, but apart from a few minor quibbles, the truss rod story might be usefully corrected.. I can’t remember ever building more than a couple ea...

How thick is the carbon composite of the fretboard? The fingerboard is .05 mm thick sandwich of glass and carbon fibers that is laminated in a heated press with a high temperature curing epoxy resin that bonds the two layers together. Next, the frets are glued on and trimmed to length before the fi...

The problem: I have a Parker fly which has developed a crack on the back of the neck following a small truss adjustment. I never saw this kind of damage before, but I wouldn’t be too concerned aside from cosmetics. The back of the neck is covered with carbon fibers, epoxy resin, and a .010” thick l...

The Problem: I've had a couple of frets fall off of a Fly. I reattached them using super glue, but they came loose again. Next I tried gorilla glue, and so far they are still intact. Is there a particular adhesive you would recommend if I have to do this again? I have always had success gluing lost...

Question: I was wondering if you could tell me what type of stainless steel was used on the Parker Fly guitars you built? Whenever one of the Fly guitars come in for a setup at my shop I am always amazed at how little wear there is on the frets. It seems to be a harder grade of stainless steel than...

The Problem: “The truss rod in this particular guitar barely works; there's more relief in this neck than I'm comfortable with.” For most of our production years, Basswood was the only material used for the necks, and later, we added Mahogany from Central America. One giant goal was to try to do a ...

This is the setscrew: 10-32 X .250”, with a.050” long hard plastic tip

The Problem: "I recently wanted to adjust the rotation friction of the vibrato arm and discovered that the set screw in the bridge that controls it is frozen solid." We did use a steel setscrew which could be corroded, and you suggest. This shouldn’t be too difficult to address. Here’s tr...